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Lake Baringo in Kenya’s Great Rift Valley is a dramatically situated freshwater lake approximately 22 km long by 11 kms wide. Evidence of its violent volcanic origins is all around, and especially in the extraordinary stepped basalt cliffs to the West of the lake. It lies at an altitude of 1100 meters and is surrounded by mountains rising to almost 3000 meters above the ambient ground level in places. Beyond the northern end of the Lake rises the dormant volcano, Karosi, 1449 meters high. 

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The Lake is home to hippos and crocodiles as well as an abundance of colourful birds and small reptiles. Giraffe and other grazers are also present to the north of the lake.

To enter the Lake area visitors need to pass through the Baringo District Council "Visitors and Statistics Centre." Entry is 200 ksh for non-residents and 50 ksh and 20 ksh for adult and children residents respectively. It's a good idea to have the exact amount ready as finding change can cause uncomfortable delays in the hot sun.

 

SERIOUS FLOODING IN MAY 2013

In recent years Lake Baringo has seen a dramatic rise in the water level. Between March 2012 and May 2013 the water level has risen by four to five metres, displacing about 20,000 residents from their homes. Although heavy rains have contributed to this, the sudden and dramatic increase may also be due partly to displacement of water by the tons of mud and silt which pour into the lake from the rivers in times of heavy rain and which have accumulated in the past several decades, as deforestation in the mountains has worsened. Lake Baringo has no visible outlet and the majority of water escapes from the lake by evaporation. An outlet such as a rock fissure is however thought to exist at the northern end of the lake, as a completely closed water system would inevitably have turned Lake Baringo into a soda lake like Lake Bogoria. This outlet has never been located and thus its current status cannot be checked. In future years, it would be useful to establish the efficacy and location of the outlet by comparing the rate of drop in water levels to known evaporation rates. An accumulation of silt or a blockage of the outlet would both have serious long-term implications for the future of the Lake, and some scientific work should be carried out to establish the reasons for this dramatic rise in water level.

As of May 2013, this flooding has had a serious effect on tourism in the area with established lakeside businesses such as Lake Baringo Club and Roberts Camp and more recently Samatian Island closing down completely. Ol Teppes Island has also been flooded. Island Camp has lost some of its facilities, but is still largely above water (although closed for renovations until July 2013.) It is imperative to check directly with the establishment you are intending to stay in and ask to what extent it has been effected by the floods. 

 

Kampi ya Samaki is a well established tourist town with a post office, a clinic and a good array of shops. For campers I would recommend buying smoked or roast Lungfish from the smoking-ladies in the village. It costs about 100 ksh for a large portion to take away and is quite delicious.  Lake Baringo Club, (CLOSED DUE TO FLOODS) Island Camp (CLOSED FOR RENOVATIONS) and Samatian Island (CLOSED DUE TO FLOODS), and Ol Teppes Island Cottage (CLOSED DUE TO FLOODS.) Several mid priced alternatives such as The Tamarind Garden, (OPEN) Soi Safari Lodge (OPEN) are still open while the popular campsite and restaurant Roberts' Camp (CLOSED DUE TO FLOODS) is closed. Last but not least there are a number of cheaply priced alternatives such as "Camp David", "Mama Lina's" - 0726857947 and "Weaver's Lodge" in the village itself. Visitors may enquire locally.

 

Lake Baringo is well known as a birding centre and many groups have sprung up to cater for the business of guiding and taking visitors on boat trips around the lake. LABGAS is an umbrella organization which regulates the activities of these groups and a visitor may like to contact them to arrange their activities. There are however groups and individuals who are not part of Labgas and who may have their own specialities. Some of the groups active in the area are the Ol Kokwe Islanders Youth Group, the Pelican Youth Group and Augustine Natuur. Close to Island Camp jetty, there is a Reptile Park which is run by Baringo Council and supported by National Museums of Kenya. It is useful to be able to identify the different snake species in the area (which include the notorious Black Mamba) and the park is worth a visit. For those who enjoy rambling without a guide there are plenty of good walks. You can print out sketch maps of two such walks, "Sehemu ya Chura" and "Short Walk" here. In recent months a number of Rothschild Giraffe have been returned to the conservancy area to the north and east of the lake. It is possible to arrange a trip by boat to Longicharo to view the giraffe and those interested should contact the Ruko Conservancy office at Roberts' Camp.

 

Lake Baringo is a warm place. Visitors often feel like spending the day swimming after making an expedition to the cliffs or out in a boat. No matter where they are staying, visitors are welcome to swim and eat at Soi Safari Lodge. 

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The climate is warm (25 to 35 degrees) all year round, day and night. While a welcome breeze blows off the Lake in the evenings, the sensation of coldness is practically unknown here. 

 

The peoples in the vicinity of the Lake are the Tugen and the Il Chamus (or Njempse) with the Pokot living slightly further north, and visiting the area to graze cattle or trade. A few Turkana have migrated to the area. There is very little cultivation owing to the long hot dry season, followed by the habitually violent rains in May, and most inhabitants survive on the grazing of goats, sheep and cattle supplemented by fishing Kamongo (Lungfish), Catfish and Tilapia and harvesting of wild fruits and berries.

 

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